We
left New Zealand on the evening of October 1st as planned. We
arrived in San Francisco the same day, during a hot and busy lunchtime. After
an hour on the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) train we were in downtown Berkeley
where my daughter Abby lived. Over my shoulders, a criss-cross of strong black
straps held the weight of: A carry-on bag full of New Zealand souvenirs, a
laptop bag containing my Toshiba computer, cords, plugs and mouse, and a purse
stuffed with money, passports, tickets and make-up. Behind me I pulled an
enormous Samsonite on wheels stuffed with clothes, shoes and outerwear for
every occasion. From the centre of Berkeley we faced a twenty minute walk up a
steadily increasing hill to our hotel. The sun beamed down. Alex led the way. I
hadn’t tried to walk up a hill for months. I took a deep breath and plunged
ahead. Every step took great effort. All I could do was concentrate on putting
one foot in front of the other. I trudged slowly up the sidewalk like I was
ascending Mount Everest while students from the campus of the University of
California breezed past me in both directions with no show of exertion. After
just a few minutes I was sweating and puffing like the last runner in a
marathon. I willed myself to the traffic light on every corner. A little cheer
sounded in my brain when the crossing signal showed a red man, giving me a
minute to catch my breath. By the third traffic light I was ready to forget the
hotel and sleep on the street. I had to stop every few feet to replenish the
oxygen in my body, breathing audibly in large gasps. I must have sounded like I
had asthma or emphysema. When Alex realised I was no longer behind him, he
turned around to look at me. He looked as easy-going as the students. I was
red-faced and in danger of cardiac arrest. I nodded to indicate I needed
another rest. At this rate it was going to take me hours to cover what should
have taken minutes. I was close to tears because I was so frustrated with
myself and my body. Sensing my distress, Alex took my heavy case and pulled it
along with his own. But I was still as slow as a hundred year old. It looks so
obvious now that there was something very sinister going on, but at the time I dismissed
any underlying reason for my malaise. I attributed the struggle and the
shortness of breath to the heat, the hill, the long flight and the heavy cases.
For
the next week I slept an average of twelve hours a night. I would go to sleep
at 10pm and I wouldn’t be ready to leave the hotel room until close to 11am. In
the first few days I developed a sore throat and had a couple of terrible nose
bleeds. My stomach became so heavy and
bloated it felt like I was carrying a large boulder in it. My right ear was
blocked. My appetite fell away until the only thing I could eat was vanilla
frozen yogurt. It felt good on my throat and didn’t add to the bloated feeling.
My lethargy and lack of enthusiasm put my relationship under strain. Alex
wanted me to share his excitement for the pleasures of Berkeley. But I
couldn’t.
“Want
to walk through the botanical gardens?”
“No
thanks.”
“Want
to explore the university campus?”
“Not today.”
“Not today.”
“Want
to shop on Shattuck Avenue?”
“You
go ahead.”
“You’re
being grumpy.”
“I’m
just tired.”
As
long as I was able to sleep a lot, I was able to make it through the days. So in
spite of my lack of endurance, we managed to enjoy our time in Berkeley and San
Francisco. We did some sightseeing and I was able to keep up through visits to
the Academy of Sciences, the de Young museum, and Golden Gate Park. I loved
spending time with Abby, taking her out to dinner and seeing where she went to
classes and shopped. I was able to get into a comfortable pace and I learned
how not to over-exert myself.
But the next hurdle was looming.
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